Thursday, October 4
I believe this is where I left off. What we thought would be a long driving day to Butte turned out to probably be the best day of the trip. First stop was Deadwood, South Dakota. Han was a big fan of the HBO show of the same name so was excited to see it. I was indifferent, but happy to ride along. It was snowing in Deadwood, Han was nearly giddy with how closely the opening of the show prepared him for the location. Then there were buildings with names he recognized and just the overall feel he really liked. We drove up to the cemetery which looked eerily beautiful, but we didn’t get out as we weren’t really prepared for ambling through the cold. From Deadwood, we returned to the original course which was to drive to Butte, Montana.
We drove north on 85 to 212 across the top right corner of Wyoming and into Montana. We stopped at a gas station and had noticed a sign for Devils Tower. We decided, “Why not?” So we hopped on 112 and headed back to Wyoming. There’s nothing like driving a 2-lane highway in Wyoming on a Thursday morning to make you feel like you’re some of the only people in the world. But it was rather pretty and then we saw it in the distance.
It is so striking. Just this enormous rock out of nowhere. We went to the National Park and drove up as close as we could. There are many native American legends about it which are fascinating, but it’s just a rock from the earth that rose up over the years. It’s pretty awesome.
On the way back from it, before we stopped in the fantastic gift shop, there was field full of prairie dogs. They were so furry and cute. I wanted one.
As we were leaving Devils Tower, I saw a sign that said something like ‘the quickest way to Little Bighorn is through Hulett.’ I joked to Han, “Do you want to go to Little Bighorn?” But then, in looking at the map, if we did go to Hulett, the road would take us right by it. So that’s what we did! We took the 112 back the way we’d come (I think, there was a turn somewhere because we didn’t go back by the gas station), but we ended up back on the 212 that took us through rural Montana. We stopped to get gas in Lame Deer, which is the tribal and government agency headquarters of the Northern Cheyenne Indian Reservation. It’s a small town, you wouldn’t even notice it, but I was interested. I’d been on reservations before, in Idaho, but didn’t think much about it. But this time was different somehow. I bought 2 bottles of water and a package of Zingers and it only cost $2.50. I don’t know why. I digress.
We made it to Little Bighorn and paid the entry fee (we should have bought the National Park pass at Arches and gotten into all these free, but who knew?) We took the driving audio tour which was awesome, although it was out of order so I had some trouble following along. Now you probably know that Little Bighorn is also known as Custer’s Last Stand. As you may have guessed, I am on the side of the native Americans. It may be easy to do now, I wasn’t there. But history doesn’t reflect well on much of early America, but I again digress. There were gravestones scattered throughout marking locations where U.S. cavalrymen fell, but I didn’t notice any for the native Americans. I had noticed this area that I wanted to check out so Han let me out and I went to it. It was a memorial to all the native Americans who had died in the battle with an amazing sculpture and 2 grave markers (they were placed in 1999 and they have since added 8 others). When I got back in the car and we were leaving, I was telling Han about it, and he decided to go back and check it out for himself. It was cold and there was nowhere to park so I took the wheel and let him have time to himself as I had had. I think it worked out well.
By the time we were done, it was close to 5 pm and we still had to get to Butte which was about 4 1/2 hours away, so we hit it. On the way there, it snowed. When you’re driving through snow, it’s hard to not feel like you’re in the middle of a kaleidoscope. It swirls in the most magical ways. At least it wasn’t sticking so the driving wasn’t too bad for Han. When we got to our Comfort Inn in Butte, we were tired. We ordered pizza and watched television and called it a night.
Friday, October 5
Since we were only driving to Coeur d’Alene this day (4 1/2 hours), we slept in and hit the road around 9:30 am. It was foggy as we were leaving Butte, so I really didn’t get to see any of it. The weather cleared up as we drove. One stop along the way was just a pull-over stop to get out and stretch our legs. We were driving through the Rockies again and we pulled off to a place that promised GIFTS! FOOD! We pulled in and saw this:
That’s right! We’d landed at the home of the Testicle Festival! We went in and it was several buildings that at some point had become just one big building. The main room was the bar. We both went to the restroom (a little sketchy on my side), bought some waters and headed back to the car. That’s when I noticed the gift shop. I hadn’t seen it when we’d pulled in I’d been so distracted by the poor bull, then I remembered GIFTS! So we went back in. That’s when we found out the Testicle Festival is a yearly shin-dig that brings thousands of folks to this little place that has a small airstrip next to it where the folks camp. There’s live music and general shenanigans. Consider it like a redneck Burning Man. But the Rock Creek Lodge was cool and they specialize in Rocky Mountain Oysters. I figured, “Why not?” So we ordered up some. They didn’t really taste like much, the batter was pretty good, but just your general deep fried food. I ate about 3, and Han ate 1. This guy kept us company.
Before we leave Rock Creek, here’s a final treat for you.